The homegrown concept serves spaghetti, salads and spritzes.
Wow. That’s the one word my guest and I kept saying when we visited the Italian restaurant, Agio. The name not only translates to comfort from Italian, but the concept hits the comfort food spot – so much so that we wouldn’t be surprised if a nonna was in the kitchen. Located in The Canopy, it is a dreamy dining destination which impressed us, dish after dish.
When you arrive from the hustle and bustle of Riyadh, Agio is a breath of fresh air. Bringing the Mediterranean to the Middle East, it makes you forget about the honking horns on the Northern Ring Road, and transports you to the lapping waves of the Amalfi Coast.
Agio in Riyadh could easily be a cookie-cutter Italian restaurant. Instead, it is brimming with personality and playfulness. The disarmingly charming staff are dressed in smart navy trousers, white shirts and bright yellow belts. The colour is echoed across the venue, from the polka dots on the oil bottles to the brand’s lemon logo, which can be found with lemons in bowls, bright lemon sofas, and paintings of lemons. When a brand gives you lemons, after all.
Agio in Riyadh has mastered a laidback luxurious vibe with its white tablecloths, statement chandeliers, potted plants and rattan chairs. Choose from seating on the first or second floor – there’s even a rooftop lounge – and get ready to indulge.
Drawing its inspiration from the Amalfi Coast, Agio in Riyadh has been created by the Modern Food Company and is a homegrown concept. Chef Filippo Pagani previously worked at Signor Sassi in Riyadh, and the menu harks back to his childhood and food made by his family. The dishes span pasta, pizza, fish and meat, and includes a wood fire oven. Plus, a range of classic desserts from cakes to gelato.
On paper, the staters sound basic but they were brilliant. The Altamura Bread and Tomato was so fresh and flavourful, and highlighted the high-quality ingredients. If courgettes were cooked like this, we would eat them every day. The Girelle Di Zucchina felt like a healthy spin on fries – the courgettes were fried to a crispy finish and served with a Tzatziki-inspired yoghurt dressing.
The Spaghetti Bolognese was a surprise. The pasta was delicately al dente, and felt like a lighter take on a heavier dish. The Lasagna Nonna Pina fused together an Italian lasagna with Green mousaka and was served in a bowl that looked like it had come straight from a grandma’s kitchen. Our only note: even though it is designed for sharing, the heavy helpings defeated the two of us.
Agio in Riyadh’s desserts are the stuff that Italian holidays are made of. Don’t go for the obvious Tiramisu. The Banana Crème Brûlée was a creamy concoction with a hint of banana. The gelato was made in-house, from the Hazelnut Ice Cream with a Ferraro Rocher on top to the Pistachio Mantecato with toppings of pistachio nuts. Plus, the drinks get you into the holiday mood, ranging from a Bellini in peach and strawberry to a Spritz made with homemade bitter vermouth.
Agio in Riyadh excelled at combining sophistication with simplicity. The staff were passionate about the details of the dishes. Don’t expect Insta gimmicks or flash-in-the-pan plates. Expect good old-fashioned spaghetti, service and spritzes – and prepare to be wowed.
GO: Follow @agiosaudi on Instagram for more information.
