Osteria Funkcoolio Review: Funky fusion cuisine docks at Port de La Mer

The cool concept specialises in Itameshi cuisine. 

If you haven’t heard of Chef Akmal Anuar, surely, you know his concepts. Akmal is known for creating exciting homegrown concepts, which have received critical acclaim. He was behind the acclaimed 3Fils, which ranked at number one in the Middle East & North Africa’s 50 Best Restaurants in 2022. He is currently behind 11Woodfire, which holds one MICHELIN Star and also Goldfish Sushi & Yakitori.

His latest passion project is Osteria Funkcoolio, an Itameshi restaurant offering a funky fusion of Italian cuisine with Japanese influences in a pretty waterfront spot at Port de La Mer. The intimate 34-seater restaurant is a swanky spot with swinging chandeliers, red leather booths and perfectly pressed white tablecloths. Plus, it contains an emerald ceiling, dark wood panelled walls, an open kitchen and a beautiful albeit unlicensed bar.

Akmal recently shared: “Osteria Funkcoolio is a definition of cool, shattering the BS, daring to shake up things, explore and be inspired.” And that’s precisely what diners can expect in the intimate dining room, which feels special but accessible and is anchored by a solid front-of-house team, many of whom have worked with Akmal for years.

Sitting inside one of the comfortable leather booths, we’re greeted with playfulness across the concise but appealing menu. Graphics of a pizza slice being held between chopsticks and a man dressed in a top hat and tails riding a fish while performing a chef’s kiss are just part of the charming allure of Osteria Funkcoolio. The restaurant has clearly been designed to curate a community feel for the neighbouring apartments and villas, and with the majority of the menu items priced below AED 100, the restaurant is already proving popular. 

Amalfi vibes resonate from the superbly sweet Limoncello (AED 38) mocktail, which is served upon a horse shoe-cum-coaster that is a symbol of protection and good luck. A perfect precursor to the fusion food where Italian cuisine meets the best of Japanese Kyoto ingredients.

The Insta-worthy Arancini Nigiri (AED 150) offers a sterling start where slithers of raw sea bream and tuna are gracefully placed upon Italian arinci balls and topped with caviar. The interplay of textures between the deep-fried rice ball and the cool yet delicate fish results immediately calms our reservations about Itameshi cuisine. 

Next is Vitello Tonnato (AED 79), a dish that is hard to come by in Dubai. It may not be the most picturesque plate, but the combination of cold, sliced veal covered with a creamy tuna sauce is a wow-worthy take on the popular Piedmontese dish with a surprising depth of flavour.

Italian restaurants revolve around pizza and pasta, so we inevitably try both. The ring-shaped Capeletti (AED 80), generously stuffed with duck, is served swimming in an alluring white butter sauce and is a delicate yet nuanced dish. In contrast, the bouncy Pici pasta (AED 90), served amidst a robust combination of crab, pine nuts, and Calabrian chilli, is a fiery favourite where the thick, hand-rolled pasta is allowed to shine. 

Osteria Funkcoolio’s Spicy Duck and Sriracha Pizza (AED 78) is baked and blistered to achieve the perfect char, resulting in a crisp crust and fluffy interior. The pizza may be wholeheartedly Italian, but topped with distinctly Asian ingredients, each slice is a moreish morsel (spoiler alert: we ordered a second to take home).

Desserts range from a Classic Tiramisu (AED 52) to a glossy Whipped Cream, Meringue and Almond sweet treat (AED 45), which continues the interplay of perceptions with its tempting textures.

With its retro-postcard aesthetic, waterfront views, undeniable intimacy and competitive pricing, Osteria Funkcoolio adds some much-needed excitement to the Dubai dining scene. It is often said that fusion leads to confusion but Osteria Funkcoolio is a testament to the chef’s culinary vision, a place where East meets West in a delightful explosion of Itameshi flavours. 

Osteria Funkcoolio: one more reason to remember Chef Akmal Anuar’s name. 

GO: Follow @funkcoolio on Instagram for more information.